Knife Sharpening Blog

Whittling has been around for many hundreds of years.  All the way back to the days of cavemen.  One could say that it is because we began to whittle that technology began.  It was the shaping of wood, after all—after the discovery of sharp edges—that sparked human imagination to make carts, cooking implements and clothes, weapons for hunting and methods of food gathering.  Who would’ve thought?

So you want to whittle wood.  Good for you.  Whittling is the simple removal of pare shavings or cutting small bits from a piece of wood with a knife or a similar wedge-edged tool.  No more, no less.  So what does it take to become a good whittler?

To become a good whittler, you’ll need to know several things.  You’ll need to know how to choose the right wood and the right knife.  You’ll want to know some basic whittling techniques and just a bit about maintenance and storage.

Choosing the Wood. 

◦  Soft woods are best for whittling.  Pine cuts very easily but isn’t able to hold detail well.  Basswood and Balsa are also very popular. 

◦  Birch, cedar and maple aren’t considered to be soft woods but they are often used for whittling.

◦  When selecting wood for whittling, rely on two things:  a straight grain and uniform color.  A straight grain is usually a softer wood than crossed grains.  Because changes in color usually mean changes in hardness, you’ll want to avoid this.  When all else fails, press down on the wood with your thumbnail and rely on that to tell you how hard it is. 

◦  If whittling wood is difficult to purchase, you could check your local lumberyard for a scrap bin.  You just might find a treasure trove. 

Choosing the Knife.  There is no one specific type or brand of knife that is best for whittling.  Mostly, it’s a matter of comfort. 

◦  Avoid stainless steel knives.  It isn’t easy to sharpen them correctly.  Even when you do, they usually can’t hold a very sharp edge for too long.  This makes them highly inefficient.

◦  Most whittlers like small knives that fit in the palm of your hand.  Others like pocket knives, switchblade knives or folding knives (with lockable blades) that can be opened with one hand.  Comfort and portability rule.

◦  Special whittling knives have short plump handles that give you an easier grip and better control.  And because whittling involves extended periods, this is really great for precision and control.

◦  Some whittling knives come in kits.  These kits may have several knives, each with a different edge shape.  Or the kit might have a knife handle and several differently shaped blade edges that are interchangeable.  Different edges allow for much better maneuverability.   

◦  When you’re ready to buy one, shop around.  Test them out.  Give yourself time to find the best fit and comfort for your hands.   

Safety Tips.

◦  You’ll be working with a small piece of wood and a small knife.  First thing then is the knife.  It should be balanced and have light weight.  More than anything else, it must be comfortable in your hand.  If it isn’t, you shouldn’t use it.

◦  Wear gloves.  Think of it this way, if you cut your hands or fingers, you’re done.  You won’t be able to whittle at all until it heals.  Wear them, at least until you’ve developed some real skill at handling the knife.

◦  Be in a good frame of mind.  Or at least a reasonably good frame of mind.  If you are the type of person who becomes aggressive when upset, it’s probably not a good idea to whittle at that time.  (Imagine losing a finger!)

Basic Whittling Techniques.  It goes without saying but you’ve got to be sure.  Keep fingers and all other body parts away from knife edges.  Take no chances. 

◦  When gripping your knife, your thumb should be against the spine with the edge facing your fingers.

◦  Each knife stroke you make should be away from your body.  Never stroke towards your body.  You know you’re just asking for it.

◦  The hand holding the knife should be further from your body than the hand holding the piece of wood.

◦  Lock your wrists for better control.

◦  Tuck your elbows into your sides to limit free movement.

Whittling Recommendations. 

◦  Use a wide-beveled knife edge to cut soft wood or semi-soft wood.  Conversely, use a narrow-beveled knife edge to cut hardwood.  A narrow bevel means a higher cutting angle which means a stronger edge.

◦  When you’re done for the day, clean and dry your knives.  A light coating of lubricant is recommended for your knife blades.  Linseed oil is recommended for your wood handles.  Take care of your knives and they could last your lifetime.

◦  If your knives don’t already have a case, store them in a way that protects their edges.  Be sure that wherever they are, it’s safe and secure.  Only you should be able to get to them. 

◦  If you decide to use more tools than just a knife, you’ll be entering the world of detailed wood carving.  Just clarifying that for you.

Sharpening Your Knife.  Factory-made whittling knives are often unsharpened.  This is preferable to a sharpened knife because dedicated whittlers prefer to make their own sharpening angles. 

◦  You can use any of various coarse grade sharpening stones or a ceramic steel to create the cutting angles. 

◦  A diamond slipstone or a diamond pocket file are great portables for times when you’re on the go.  Or you can use them for quick touch-ups on your edges.   

◦  A well-sharpened knife edge will need a strop to remove the burr and all other micro-bits from the edge.  This improves the whittling process and delays further sharpening.  If you prefer, a honing compound and honing board will also get that edge smooth. 

◦  If you haven’t learned how to sharpen a knife and maintain its edge, these are among the first things you should learn.  You’ll be more independent and as efficient as possible.  

Whittling is an ancient craft.  It’s wonderfully contemplative and could even be spiritually meditative.  It is the journey that matters more than the end result.  If you have no care to rush, if you want to take your time and see what happens, what’re you waiting for?

Most wood carving tools are cutting tools.  Every cutting tool has at least one bevel.  This is the sloping surface coming off the edge.  But it’s more than jut a sloping surface.  It’s actually a cutting angle.  So the bevel supports a specific cutting angle that determines how the tool can be used.  Experienced carvers know about bevels and how they affect cutting efficiency. 

If you’re just starting out as a wood carver, and you’re going to purchase carving tools for the first time, here are some things you should know.

◦  Some carving tools leave the manufacturer without a bevel.  This means that you’ll have to be the one to make the cutting angle, which determines the shape of the bevel.  Many experienced wood carvers prefer new tools this way because they want to put the cutting angles on themselves.  They don’t want to have to remake an edge. 

◦  Non-beveled edges are only recommended for those wood carvers who already know how to sharpen knives or similar types of cutting tools.  Beveled edges are essentially wedges and every metal wedge is, in effect, a knife.  When you know how to sharpen knives, you can make the cutting angle (AKA the sharpening angle) just the way you want it.  You control the bevel exactly.

◦  It’s pretty easy to find new carving tools with pre-set bevels already ground in by the manufacturer.  Nevertheless, the new carver must be aware that, even though the cutting angle was created by the tool maker, it may not be the correct size or shape that they want.  Don’t just assume that the bevel is correct.  Know your needs, i.e. your specific carving tasks, and get the right tools.  You shouldn’t rush this.    

The cutting angle of your carving tool, or the length of the bevel, determines the strength of the wood you can carve.  At its very basic, the greater the cutting angle, the steeper and shorter the bevel.  The greater angle means more cutting strength on the edge.  The stronger the edge, the harder the wood to be cut.  What does it all mean? 

◦  If you’re going to cut soft woods, you’ll want a small cutting angle on your tool’s edge.  This is a very thin edge and makes for a very large bevel (a long backwards slope).

◦  If you’re going to cut hard woods, you’ll want a large cutting angle on your tool’s edge.  This makes for a much thicker, slanted edge and a small bevel (short and steep).

Here is another important point to keep in mind.  The size of the cutting angle on your edge can determine how much control you’ll have when carving. 

◦  If you’re using a carving tool with a small cutting angle and a large bevel, more of your hands can rest on the wood.  This provides better control and, therefore, better carving.  Unfortunately, your edge isn’t as strong as it could be. 

◦  If you’re using a carving tool with a large cutting angle and a small bevel, less of your hands can rest on the wood.  This could make carving a bit clumsy because you’ve got much less control of your hands.  It’s a curious thing.  You’ve a strong edge that cuts fast but mistakes are easily made.

Because we’re talking about bevels, here are the three main types of bevels that can be found in wood carving:  straight (square) bevels, rounded bevels (convex) and hollow (concave) bevels. 

◦  Straight bevels.  As the name sounds, these bevels have a straight square edge.  They provide the most efficient cutting and the greatest strength to the edge for its sharpness.  Many wood carvers prefer this type of bevel. 

◦  Rounded bevels.  The profile of a rounded bevel is convex and looks the exact opposite of a hollow bevel.  More effort is needed to cut the wood because the wedge is normally thick.  Therefore, cutting angles are large. 

 ◦  Hollow bevels.  Hollow bevels are concave and look the exact opposite of a rounded bevel.  It’s a very unique shape but working with it isn’t very easy.   Oftentimes, the hollowed bevel will unknowingly ride up on the edge of a cut so you’ve got to watch every part of it all of the time.    

When you know the fundamentals of how cutting angles on beveled edges affect cutting efficiency, you’ll know so much about any cutting tool that you hold in your hand.  Simple mistakes can be avoided and you’d be well on your way to becoming a skilled wood carver.     

Wood carving is a special craft.  It requires extreme patience that could flourish with a fine imagination.  If you decide to become a wood carver, you’ll have several styles to choose from.  You could use just a piece of wood and a small knife.  Or you could go so far as using power tools.  So how can you know which style is best for you?

There are five main styles of woodcarving.  Each style is distinctly different from the other.  These styles are whittling, chip carving, relief carving, intaglio carving and carving in the round.

◦  Whittling.  Whittling involves the removal of pare shavings or bits of wood with a cutting blade.  It is the simplest form of wood carving, but not actually the art of wood carving.  This is a significant distinction because whittling is, and should always be, very simple.  All you need is a piece of wood and a knife and you’re set to go.  And because it is so simple, whittled objects don’t have much detail, as is the case in all other styles of wood carving. 

When you’re holding a whittled object in your hand, you absolutely know it.  You can plainly see each knife stroke.  It remains as simple as when it began centuries ago, during the time of cavemen.  Isn’t that amazing?

◦  Chip Carving.  Chip carving involves the use of several knives to remove small pieces of wood (chips) from a flat wood surface.  These are specially made chip knives that are used to push or pull at the wood, cutting upwards or downwards to free each chip.        

Chip carving has expanded to become its own art form.  The main technique is to chip varying triangular shapes from the wood.  This is done in a way that creates intricately detailed patterns that are often geometric in nature.  Free form lines are regularly used to accentuate these chipped patterns.  You could really let your imagination go.

◦  Relief Carving.  This type of carving is done on a flat back cut of wood with images cut in 3-dimensional fashion.  These are the wood carvings you see on walls or sitting on tables or surface tops. 

There are two types of relief carving.  A low relief carving is identifiable by the visual effect that is created.  Without shadows to imply deep carving, the product appears very shallow and is thus considered low relief.  In high relief carvings, a spectacular depth effect is created by the addition of shadows throughout.  Both types result in carvings with good dimension and detail.  The end product is polished to create a very smooth surface.  Then it may be painted, waxed or varnished.      

◦  Intaglio Carving.  This style of wood carving is very similar to relief carving.  But instead of looking as though it is above the wood surface, it looks as if it is part of the wood.  This is because the design is actually carved deep into the wood, below the surface.  Think of old wooden rolling pins.  Remember the cute little pictures that were carved into it?  That’s intaglio carving.

Intaglio carving has been very popular with furniture makers.  It has come so far as to be fitted for a blank space, carved separately and then inserted into the furniture.  How about that?  It can even be found in dining tables and in bedroom furniture.  It’s wonderful for wood paneling.  You can even see it in specialty plaques, as part of an existing decorative item or as the actual surface of coffee tables and end tables. 

◦  Carving In The Round.  This is the most advanced style of wood carving.  It involves a completely detailed carving that can be viewed from all sides.  It is carved out of the wood and its base serves as a supporting platform or as a pedestal.  The carving could be a person, an animal or a landscape—nearly anything you can imagine.  It could be life-sized or to scale.  The sky is almost the limit with carving in the round.

This style of carving requires quite a number of tools.  A variety of knives, gouges and chisels are a bare minimum.  The use of power tools is not surprising and often expected.  The final product then is usually quite spectacular.  Oftentimes, a product of carving in the round is easily mistaken for a porcelain creation.  The details are that impressive.

Wood carving has been around since the days of cavemen.  With time, it has become quite an impressive art to behold.  It’s very relaxing, often exhilarating and extremely satisfying.  If you’re looking for a hobby, wood carving could be just what you’re looking for. 

 If you’re going to be a wood carver and not just a whittler, you’ll need to select a number of tools.  There’s just no way around it.  So what are the right tools for wood carving?

Tools for Sharpening.  Before the carving tools, it seems appropriate that tools for sharpening them should come first.  After all, first we sharpen and then we carve.

At the very minimum, you should have a sharpening stone and a strop.  The sharpening stone is used to get your edges to sharpness.  Many sharpening stones come in different shapes and in different sizes.  Some are very accommodating to the typically short blade lengths of wood carving blade edges.  Diamond coated slipstones are very nice.  Some sharpening stones can even be found on a key chain or be as small as a credit card.  So very convenient.

A strop is meant to remove the burr and all micro-bits still clinging to your well-sharpened blade edge.  This is very important in wood carving.  Anything added to the edge will only slow your progress.  You’ve got to get everything off.  If you prefer, you could use a honing compound or a honing board to smooth out your edges.

If you’re really serious about becoming a wood carver, it is highly recommended that you learn how to sharpen and strop a knife.  Once you’ve learned that, you’ll also be able to sharpen most other carving edges.  The need for smooth sharp edges is a constant in wood carving.  Knowing how to achieve them will put you way ahead of the game.

Tools for Shaping.  Each type of carving tool that is meant to shape wood has a specific function.  At the very minimum, you should have carving knives, wood chisels, wood gouges, wood rasps and rifflers, a mallet and maybe even a power drill.

◦  Carving knives.  This is your most basic of all carving tools and there are many kinds.  There are straight-edged knives, skewed knives, bent knives, chip knives, detail knives, special pocket knives modified for carving and folding knives with lockable blades.  And these aren’t all of them.  There are even micro-knives or micro-tool kits, if you’d like.

It’s a matter of functionality.  Each edge is target specific.  When you’ve learned what each type of knife can do, and you’ve considered the carving project ahead of you, then you’ll know which knives are best for that job.  The best knives used for one specific task may not be the same knives that are best for another.  That’s why you’ve got choices.

◦  Wood chisels.  Most chisels are ground on both sides but it is possible to find them with a bevel on only one side.  The head may be slanted or square in shape.  They may even be bent forward or backward.  You’ll have quite a selection.    

◦  Wood gouges.  This is one of the most used tools in wood carving.  There are many shapes and sizes.  Some are very short and stout while others extend for a few inches with an extended blade edge.  You’ll probably end up with several kinds.  That’s not a problem.  Surely, you’ll use each one at some time or another.   

◦  Wood Rasps or Riffler files.  Shopping for these tools could be a bit confusing.  Really.  Some stores call it a rasp, others will call it a riffler.  And yet another will call it a rasp riffler.  How to know, how to know.  Well, the majority of merchants appear to agree that a rasp is a very coarse, straight file.  The tool itself may be thick and rectangular like a sharpening file but don’t be surprised to find those that are slender with a curving head, looking just like a riffler.

Rifflers, on the other hand, are usually slender with a curved head.  Many times these curved heads can be found on both ends of the riffler.  You can even find kits that offer you different shaped heads and at different sizes.

◦  Mallets.  These little hammers are invaluable in the right circumstance.  They are a must for chip carving, relief carving and intaglio carving.  (What am I saying?)  Mallets are a must for all wood carving.  You may need just a few millimeters off of here and no more, maybe add a little notch there, an indent over here, maybe create a shadow.  It really is such a valuable tool.

◦  Power tools.  There are some pretty nice power tools for wood carving.  There are power drills, rotor saw burrs, power chisels and mini grinders.  You can even find power carving kits.  There’s even a wood carver’s kit that offers its own selection of power grinders.

These tools are quite extraordinary in how much time and labor they can save wood carvers.  Many consider them only for life-size or extremely large carvings.  It’s all up to the carver.  Hey, how about a carving created entirely by power tools?  (Wonder how big that’d be.)  

Tools for Sanding and Smoothing.  When all the wood carving and shaping is done, you’ll want to sand and smooth all surfaces.  This is an important step that precedes any painting or varnishing.  In doing so, you’ll remove any remains from any previous finishing process and you’ll also prepare the wood to bond with any non-penetrating chemicals.  Sanding can be done using sand paper, sanding clothes or sanding sticks.

◦  Sanding is often accomplished using sand paper.  There are many grades, from very, very coarse to very, very fine.  There’s quite a selection.  Something very similar to this is the defuzzing pad.  It does as it sounds.  It removes all fuzz still clinging to the wood surface. 

◦  There are sanding clothes that come in a roll and are available in varying grit sizes.  Sections may be cut from the roll and rolled or folded as you wish.  Best thing is, you don’t have to worry about it cracking or falling apart on you.

◦  Sanding sticks may also be found in varying grit sizes.  You can also find sanding stick kits or sanding detail kits that can remove glue or minute remains of your finishing products.  Mini-belt sanding sticks or sanding belts may be used for large sanding jobs.

Wood carving is an amazing craft to develop.  You could use just a handful of tools and work with small projects.  Or you could use a bunch of tools, including power tools, to work on really large projects.  Either way, it’s very relaxing, oftentimes exhilarating and extremely satisfying.  Have fun! 

 ————————————————————————-

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges

               (e.g. Chain Saws, Gardening Tools, Axes)

            ▪  Or maybe you could use a Free Guide on  Sharpening Lawn Mower Blades

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com. 

You’re sharpening your knife and have tested it to confirm for sharpness.  You know that you’ve achieved it because you’ve found a burr on the knife’s edge.  This burr is how we know that the edge has reached the point of absolute sharpness.  It confirms it.  Should you stop there?  Oh, but you must.

There’s only so much sharpening that can be done to an edge.  To continue after that only results in unnecessary loss of metal on your blade edge.  To continue gains nothing.  Are you done then?

You’ve got a burr on your blade edge and it should be removed.  Burrs on an edge feel like tiny bits of metal still clinging to it.  They feel much like sand.  But you’d like to get it as fine as it can be, even slippery sharp at that.

Maybe you’ve got knives that are going on display.  Maybe they’re going to be included in a ceremony of some sort.  Or maybe you’d just like to show off your fine knives to your friends and family.  I’m sure you’d want your edges to shine, to make them silky smooth.  Well, then.  It’s time to strop it.

Stropping is a technique used to clean off a blade’s edge after sharpening.  It is meant to bend and twist those clinging metal pieces until they fall off.  It’s also done to realign the microscopic teeth created on the edge while sharpening.

Stropping is done by swiping both sides of your blade’s edge over a leather strap.  When you can no longer feel clinging bits, you have successfully stropped your blade edge.  It should be shining nice and bright at this point.  This is how stropping was always done in the past, but times are changing.

Did you ever think that you might one day be able to electrically strop an edge?  I sure didn’t.  The world of electric knife sharpening has come a very long way.  Some electric knife sharpeners are quite amazing.  Many of the high priced sharpeners are equipped with their own stropping abrasives.  How about that?  It’s true.

Spend anywhere form over $50 to a few hundred on an exceptional electric knife sharpener and it’ll both sharpen and strop your blades for you.  Just like that.  Yes, I know.  It seems like an awful lot of money for just an electric knife sharpener.  But if you’ve got the means and don’t care to diddle with it, electric knife stropping is surely possible now.  It is entirely up to you.

Let’s make one point very clear.  Stropping is not sharpening.  It isn’t, really.  But stropping with a polishing compound or an abrasive compound sure is.  When you do this, when you add such a compound to the strap, the stropping has now become its own form of sharpening.  Because it can now remove metal from the edge, it is a sharpener.  All by itself, however, the strap can do no more than strop an edge.  Therein lies the difference.

For fine knife sharpening, stropping is always the last step.  It is done after absolute sharpness has been achieved.  It makes each knife edge as fine as it can be.  They will shine and shine.  Isn’t that special?

————————————————————————

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  Sharpening Devices, Tests for Sharpness, Steeling and more

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges

               (i.e. Chain Saws, Lawn Mower Blades, Gardening Tools, Axes)

Find it Here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com 

The first time I heard about ceramic knives, I wasn’t impressed.  Truthfully, I was a bit concerned over the questionable intellect of knife manufacturers.  You see, my house is full of ceramic statues and ashtrays.  When they fall to the floor as they periodically do, they shatter into many, many smaller pieces.  I thought the same would be true with ceramic knives.  I was grateful to learn that I was very wrong.  They are not the same.  So I had some learning to do.

Ceramic knives are made out of zirconium oxide.  They aren’t metallic whatsoever and have a flat, off-white to bright white color.  Their composition is much harder than steel.  Actually, they’re second only to diamonds, which are the hardest mineral of all.  Isn’t that something?    

There is another class of ceramic knives that have black blades.  These blades start out as white zirconium oxide.  Then they are changed to black zirconium carbide by an additional firing process called sintering.  This process gives the blades the advantage of being even tougher than before.  Now they are the strongest knives out there.    

There are definite advantages of ceramic knives over steel knives.

◦  Edge Longevity.  Because ceramic knives are harder than steel knives, they can hold a sharp edge much longer.  Generally, most ceramic knives can hold their edge for months if used correctly.

◦  Easy Use.  Because they hold their edges longer, ceramic knives are easier to use than steel knives.  There’s less sharpening to be done.  They’re also much lighter in weight than steel knives.

◦  Wear Resistance.  Ceramic knives do not stain or rust.  Steel knives can become discolored by food acids but not so with ceramic knives.

◦  Chemically non-reactive.  You needn’t worry over whether or not your food will taste or smell like metal.  Isn’t that great?

◦  Simple To Clean.  Ceramic knives are non-stick.  It isn’t ever necessary to use special cleaners or abrasives to get them clean.

Just as there are advantages, there are a few pretty important disadvantages to using ceramic knives.

◦  Expensive.  Ceramic knives are usually more costly than steel knives.  This is because zirconium oxide is a fairly advanced material and costs more than steel.  In addition, imported ceramic knives, as most of them are, have a high import tax that adds to their price tag.

 ◦  Edge Fragility.  Quality ceramic knives are not likely to shatter when dropped.  They are, however, likely to gain a chipped edge or a broken tip.  Despite the strength of the ceramic, the edge is quite obviously fragile.  Cutting bone or anything of similar hardness, then, is out of the question.   

◦  Breakable Blades.  If you use your ceramic knife as a prying tool, you’ve got a very good chance of snapping the blade at the handle.  Just don’t do it.  While your knife isn’t meant for prying, the fact that the blade could actually snap in two when strong pressure is applied leaves room for concern.  Use it only for cutting.

Generally speaking, sharpening ceramic knives yourself isn’t recommended.  When ceramic knives are purchased, customers are advised to bring their knives back to the manufacturer when they need to be sharpened.  If that isn’t possible, they’re advised to bring their ceramic knives to a machine shop.

Sharpening a ceramic knife is not the same as sharpening a steel knife.  It is a whole new animal.  You’ve really got to know what you’re doing.  However, with good skill and the right tools, you really could sharpen them yourself.   

Ceramic knives are wonderful to use.  They are highly efficient.  Usability may be limited, but where you can use it, watch out.  They are quite extraordinary.   

————————————————————-

Len Q. is a master blade sharpener and an adventurer who strives to protect the natural world.  If you would like to learn about

            ▪  Knife Sharpening:  How to Sharpen Knives, Maintain and Store Them

            ▪  How to Sharpen Ceramic Knives, Tests for Sharpness, Steeling and more

            ▪  Sharpening Other Edges (Maintaining and Storing Them)

               (i.e. Chain Saws, Gardening Tools, Axes)

            ▪  Maybe you’d like a Free Guide:  Sharpening Lawn Mower Blades

Find it here at www.MakeKnivesSharp.com 

It’s just a little valley on a tropical island, sitting just on top of the equator in the west Pacific Ocean.  It’s on weathered volcanic soil with a steep little mountain range on one side and the main highway on the other passing high above it.  I live along the southern rim of that valley and I’ve known it my whole life. 

Hiking at a nice leisurely pace up the steep ravine hills for a few hundred feet is entirely worth it when I choose a spot near the summit to just be.  It’s a true blessing to be able to do that.  It’s a wonderful workout, too.  The tops of the steep hills all the way down to nearly its base are covered with savanna grasslands.  The really steep slopes and all along their base are covered with ravine forests.  More like raving jungles.  If you look up into those hills from a distance, the golden color of the grasslands are a fantastic contrast to the dark green jungles of the foothills.  It staggers my mind to know that a hundred years ago, nearly all of these hills were dark green.  Jungles all the way to the top.  Wow.  And what a reason why it’s no longer that way.

Fire has been used as a tool for man’s purposes practically from the moment of its discovery.  So too has it been done here.  And it has become one of the greatest weapons for deer hunting here in the southern jungles.  What they do is set a fire.  Just set a fire to blaze and let her rip.  Help it if it’s having some trouble getting going.  Because once it’s gone and burning acres along the land, a fantastic thing called life happens after.  New grass shoots come out of the burned and blackened hills.  And the deer will come to eat those tender shoots with the fierce hunter in waiting.

Oh, but all the other things that happen because a fire was set loose in the hills.  Surely, not things the arsonist would have thought about.  Let’s just move in the direction as things happen.  The fire is set and it’s burning.  First thing then is the atmosphere.  A powerful green house gas (carbon dioxide), a direct byproduct of burning vegetation, is set forth into the atmosphere.  But wait.  We won’t actually feel its effects for a long time anyway.  No, that’s not right.  Global warming.  That’s right.  Isn’t it amazing that the collective burning of vegetation all over the world is still a major contributor to global warming?  Strike one.

While it’s burning, a stray fire will often run into a jungle.  So the fire will stop then, right?  That’s true.  It will—at an eventual time.  But the fire won’t just stop once it meets the jungle.  It’s got to burn its way into it a bit, to run into the water and the bulk of the jungle.  That’ll take a few feet at least.  So fires reduce the size of jungles if allowed to burn out on their own.  The more you burn, the smaller your jungles.  Strike two.

Now the fire has died and the hills are bare.  When the rain comes, and they will, so much soil will wash away.  I’ve never seen a burnt hillside escape from being washed down by the rains.  Soil erosion to sedimentation in the water.  But that doesn’t matter.  The ocean is a big place.  It won’t hurt.  In the grand scheme of oceans, not too much.  To the aquatic creatures in the rivers, the living coral reefs, and the enormous marine population that feed and live on those reefs, the damage is absolutely life-threatening.  Strike three.  

Let’s add it all up.  We’ve got the pros on one side, that being that the new shoot growth immediately following a fire is enticing to deer.  They could be easier to catch.  It only benefits the hunter.  We’ve got the cons on the other side and the list is awesome. 

▪ The air, our atmosphere, receives an infusion of a powerful greenhouse gas that contributes to global warming.  We know, without doubt, that extensive and continuing global warming has caused, and is accelerating, a climate change that could very well end our days.

▪ There is the land.  Our jungles do get smaller.  This already results in loss of habitat for wildlife.  The vibrant green of our jungles and the golden sea of our savannas are replaced by burnt and blackened hills.  Any wildlife, nests or burrows caught in the fire, any food supply, well, that’s just their loss.  And when the rains come, we lose our topsoil.  No more roots to hold it in place.  Accelerated soil erosion, I do despise it.

.

▪ There is the sea, to include the rivers.  Immediately following soil erosion is the impact of sedimentation.  This transported soil spreads.  It blankets and suffocates when at last it settles.  Sedimentation is the bringer of death to microscopic organisms, to vegetation, to fish and corals, to say the least.  In aquatic environments, destruction is great and long-lasting.  Imagine that your air is filled with ash all of the time.  What would the quality of your life be like then? 

The actions of man introduces hundreds of millions of tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere every single day.  (It hurts to even write it down.)  There is no question, no debate.  A good percentage of that comes from the constant burning of the natural landscape.  We have to change how we do things. 

For the survival of our race, global warming has to stop.  The climate change must be arrested, if not reversed.  If we refuse to make it happen, will anything matter in fifty or a hundred years?  Spread the word.  Take your part.  We can still save ourselves.

When it comes to surviving a jungle, to breaking out of a tangled hell, there isn’t anything, anywhere that can compare to the magnificent machete.  You won’t find another tool or device that can work as fast and as efficiently.  So, how do you know what to look for when it’s time to get one? 

Well, when it’s time to choose a machete, there are certain features that it should never have.  Really.  It shouldn’t be lightweight.  It shouldn’t be bright and shiny.  Please, no.  Machetes that possess such qualities usually can’t hold a very sharp edge.  This makes them very inefficient.  The machetes themselves won’t last very long, either.  That very thin blade could just break in two on your first hard job.  A shattered blade flying uncontrollably through the air is entirely possible.  Believe it.   

The best kinds of machete are those that are made of high carbon steel blades with spring temper.  This sturdy composition allows for some flexibility of the blades with very little fear of snapping them in two.  They can be identified immediately by the black oxide finish of the blade.  If not, there is usually some other black anti-rust baked-on finish.  The best handles are high impact shatterproof polymer handles that are usually black in color.  Steel compression rivets are optimum for holding the handles in place.

As with a sharp knife, a sharpened machete—and even when its not—should always have a sheath on.  Just falling on an unsheathed machete, knocking your swinging arm into it or even accidentally kicking it on the ground could really result in a terrible injury.  Don’t even question the need for it.  If you haven’t got a sheath, leave it at home.

Here are a couple of “don’ts” for choosing a sheath.  Cloth-like vinyl sheaths are easily found but they aren’t recommended.  The blade should have a much stronger form of protection.  There are some wooden sheaths available but they aren’t very practical, especially in the field.  They could split or break and you’d be left carrying an unsheathed machete. 

While some machetes come with very nice leather sheaths, this type of sheath isn’t recommended for a working machete.  Especially not when you’re going to store it.  It is suggested that they only be used for show.  Leather absorbs moisture and facilitates the production of tannic acid.  This will then accelerate the formation of rust.  Such a problem can, and should be avoided.  You really don’t want to go there. 

The best machete sheaths are made of a very tough, very thick flexible plastic that completely covers the blade from tip to handle.  Military surplus stores are the best places to find them, although they are available at many other stores.  They aren’t as common as leather sheaths but they are so much more functional.  My personal favorite is the one that comes with a metal swivel belt hook and a built-in sharpener.  The classic military machete sheath.  Very nice.

Some new machete models have features that are quite impressive.  These features improve the functionality of the machete.  Some have a prominent saw-toothed edge at the spine of the blade, sometimes called a saw back.  Minus the tip, it sometimes covers almost the entire length of the spine.  It’s awesome.  This is a machete with a fully functional saw.  Really nice, especially for rubbery or extremely hard wood.  There’s no need for repetitive chopping. 

Another improved feature is the addition of long grooves that run lengthwise along the flat of the blade.  These grooves allow for better removal from sappy wood or vegetation of similar texture.  Lanyard holes are not a requirement of machete handles but they sure are nice to have.  It helps for temporary storage on the quick.

There are many styles and types of machetes available in today’s market.  You could get a Bowie machete, a bolo machete, a two handed or a double edged machete, to name just a few.  These machetes range in price from just over five dollars to nearly a hundred dollars (sheath and sharpening stone included).  Even the best machetes can be found at less than thirty dollars.  Just be sure it has the best features possible and lacks the features that will only weaken it. 

A good quality machete is an extremely valuable tool in the right circumstance.  It is extremely versatile and efficient.  Any person who often finds him or herself out in the field is highly recommended to have at least one in their collection of tools.  Nothing compares to the magnificent machete.

You’ve decided to become a rock climber.  Yet all you know is what you’ve seen on television or in movies.  That doesn’t matter.  You’ve decided and that’s that.  Let’s pretend that you come from a land where there are no large rock formations whatever.  Here are some basic tips and suggestions to help in your understanding of what it takes to engage in this extreme sport. 

Tips for Good Technique. 

◦  Rock climbing is mentally challenging.  The ability to clear your mind and focus is essential to your success as a climber.  If you’re able to meditate as you climb, you’re worlds ahead of those that can’t.  Use whatever works for you.  There is no one way for all.   

◦  Control the center of gravity (COG).  This is usually at the center of your body, somewhere in your abdomen.  (Hopefully not lower than that!)  All of your movements begin here.  You’ll want your legs directly beneath you or to equal distances on each side of you. 

◦  Observe other climbers.  This is especially educational when you are belaying a good climber.  Ask questions as they come to you.  Understanding will go a long way when you try the moves yourself.

◦  Practice the techniques you’ve observed.  Learn them.  With repetition, these techniques will become more and more comfortable.  Eventually, you may discover that these new moves are exactly what you need to complete a particular section of a climb.    

◦  Climb when you’re tired.  It seemed a bit nuts when I first learned this.  But it really can help a new climber.  Climbing tired forces you to plan each move with deliberation and not speed.  It also forces you to consider your energy reserves and learn just how far you can go in this condition.

◦  Work on your weak points.  Spare some climbs just to work on your weak points.  You’ll vastly improve your climbing ability and bring you closer to becoming a good climber.  Remember that it isn’t a good idea to work on your good points during the same climb.  Work on one or the other, not both. 

Tips when Climbing.

◦  Rock climbing can be done at any speed you’re comfortable with.  You may climb slowly and methodically.  Or you may climb with speed and finesse, if that suits you better.  Whatever the choice, it should depend upon the strengths you already have.

◦  Whenever possible, rely on your legs to move you.  It is very unwise to sap unnecessary energy from your upper body when your legs can easily get it done.

◦  Raise one foot at a time.  This will further prevent you from using your upper body to lift all your weight.  Avoid doing so whenever you can.

◦  When you feel your muscles tightening, when you feel that a cramp is coming on, just stop.  Go no further.  Don’t wait for the cramp to happen to stop.  Look for a nearby ledge or just hangdog (rest on your gear or on the rope) until all muscle tightening has disappeared.

Tips when Resting. 

◦  Check and secure your footholds.  Make sure that the next handholds are above your head.

◦  Keep your arms in a relaxed position by straightening them out.  It really does make a difference.

◦  Lean back into the wall and not away from it.  Energy is uselessly lost when you lean out and have to pull yourself back in to continue the climb.  Your COG will have been in your arms and you don’t want that.

◦  Plan your next move.  Locate your next holds.  Position your hands and feet, even practice the movements.  This improves each chance for a smooth execution, especially on difficult sections.  

These are very basic tips and recommendations to quicken your understanding of what it takes to engage in the sport of rock climbing.  When you understand, you can better implement safely and then improve quickly.  And once you’ve received certified instruction on how to climb, you’re outta’ here.  Just remember to always respect the air and space around you for there is no safety net.  Be safe up there. 

So you want to be a rock climber.  You’d like to climb a rock wall or maybe hang off the side of a rock formation somewhere.  Well, you’ll have several styles to choose from to do it.  It could be pretty easy and safe or you could seriously risk your life.  Either way, you’ll need to know exactly what you’re doing.

Rock climbing is climbing to the summit of a natural rock formation or climbing to the summit of a manmade rock wall.  It could also be climbing to a designated endpoint on a climbing route.  It doesn’t always mean that you’ve got to reach the very top.  A sectional climb like this is referred to as a pitch.  If you’re climbing several routes consecutively, it would be considered a multi-pitch climb. 

Rock climbing has been around for nearly a hundred years.  Climbers have encountered many kinds of rock formations all around the world.  It’s not surprising then that rock climbing has branched into several more distinct styles.  Most of the rock climbing done today is considered to be a form of free climbing.  This involves using solely one’s own physical ability to climb.  Equipment is used but only as a means of protection from falling. 

◦  Aid climbing.  The safest method of rock climbing is aid climbing.  Equipment is used for all handholds and all footholds, meaning that the climber is assisted every step of the way.  When rock climbing first began, this method allowed for ascents that were believed impossible.  It was this fantastic enabling quality of aid climbing that helped to bring such interest to the sport. 

◦ Bouldering.  This style of rock climbing involves short climbing routes that are near enough to the ground that a fall should not result in the climber’s death.  There is no rope or harness but, preferably, there is a helmet.  The only other option for protection is to use a bouldering pad (protective mat).  The climbing partner (an absolute necessity) on the ground usually directs the location of this pad, aligning it with the climber’s location.  The climbing partner is also the all-seeing eye that warns the climber of hazardous areas.

◦  Top Roping.  This is probably the easiest and safest way to free climb.  A rope is already secured through an anchor at the top of the climb.  A belayer, your climbing partner, holds onto the opposite end of the rope, controlling any give or take while keeping it taut.       

◦  Lead Climbing.  This involves a lead climber who ascends with one end of a rope tied to his harness.  The belayer, the leader’s partner, holds onto the other end of the rope, giving or taking up slack as needed.  The lead climber sets up a belay system as she climbs, securing safety anchors for her partner to use, which is also the fail-safe system to catch the lead climber in case she falls.

If this is a multi-pitch route, the partner picks up the anchor points on the way up.  The climbers then proceed to the next pitch.  If it’s a single pitch, the anchor points are cleaned (taken out) on the way down by the last climber.  This is a great way to help keep criticisms at bay that rock climbers litter the natural landscape.  All climbers should live the creed:  Take nothing, leave nothing.

◦  Traditional Climbing and Sport Climbing.  These methods of climbing are both styles of lead climbing.  The difference is in how the protection is placed.  In sport climbing, the anchors are already set.  You needn’t worry about placing them or removing them.  In traditional climbing, the anchors are placed as the climb progresses and then removed by the last climber.

◦  Free Solo Climbing.  This is also called free soloing.  It is the most advanced form of rock climbing.  The climber uses nothing for protection.  No anchor points, no belay, no rope and no harness.  If he falls, he falls unencumbered all the way down.  It’s quite frightening.  Accidents, in this case, are tragic.  You’ve got to be fit, skilled and have great emotional and psychological control to do this successfully.  Be more than ready.  Be extremely more than ready.  Your life depends on it.

If you decide to free solo, be very weary of the weather.   The climbing may be going just fine and then it rains.  This could prove fatal to this kind of climber.  Dry, sunny days are what you want.  Don’t risk your life.

◦  Deep water soloing.  The only “safe” method of free soloing is deep water soloing.  This is climbing done on sea cliffs over water.  While falling into the ocean beneath a cliff face seems better than falling on hard ground, it isn’t particularly safe.  You’ve got to be aware of the tides and of prevailing wave action, of submerged boulders or coral islands.  Not only that but, if you’re climbing more than 80 feet above the surface of the water, the impact alone could prove fatal.  Mind your elevation. 

◦  Indoor Climbing.  This designation is for all rock climbing done indoors.  Climbing is done on man-made rock climbing walls.  Any style is permitted, although not free soloing.  You’re required to wear and use all safety gear.  This would be the safest and most recommended way to learn how to rock climb.     

There you have it, all the ways to rock climb.  It could be a highly dangerous activity where you risk your life at every moment.  Or it could be very safe and protected without worry.  Just use caution at all times.  And, please, don’t ever climb outdoors alone.  You know you’re just asking for it.